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Post by Kelly G on Jul 13, 2012 15:02:28 GMT -8
Okies, did some browsing around but figured our great group here would be the best resource.
I would like to:
A. Check the firmware on my "new to me" GT3 RS V2 Wheel.
B. Upgrade the firmware if it is out of date
C. Correctly upgrade the firmware to the most stable version for my particular wheel.
For you other Fanatec owners, how do you check the firmware version on your wheels? I have seen instructions that say to gently grab the wheel while is self-calibrating and press the 4 buttons on the bottom but to me that doesn't seem like a good thing to do.
I haven't been able to find a solid set of instructions for upgrading the firmware so would love to find out how to do that.
Lastly, what firmware should I upgrade to as I've heard/read that an incorrect firmware load can nuke the wheel.
Thanks!
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Post by zero7159 on Jul 13, 2012 17:56:44 GMT -8
Dark, welcome to the world of owning a Fanatec wheel. Its a great club. Before you upgrade the firmware, give some thought to whether you really want to do that. I have only upgraded the firmware on my wheels when they needed it to fix a problem (i.e. - CSR, original firmware did not save settings; CSR Elite - original firmware had rough FFB in Forza) If your wheel is working fine, then you might want to avoid making changes to the firmware. Anyway, assuming you decide to upgrade your firmware, then your next stop should be Thomas's blog, 911wheel.com. Here is the link to the latest beta firmware for your wheel: www.911wheel.de/?q=node/8543The instructions for the install are pretty self-explanatory, particularly for a computer savvy guy like you. To check the version of your firmware, you fire up the wheel and then press a button combination while holding the wheel. Here is a link: f-wheel.com/forums/index.php/topic,172.msg1345.html To be honest, I had a GT2, which is very similar to your wheel, and I never upgraded the firmware because I was worried about this procedure for checking the firmware, and the wheel worked fine, hence I did not see the need to mess with the firmware. For my CSR, I don't have to hold the wheel, I just press the A, B and bottom red buttons on the wheel at the same time, after firing it up, but before going into PC, Xbox or PS3 mode. Its the same for the CSR Elite. That must be an improvement. I hope that helps, sorry I could not better answer your questions. |
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Post by Kelly G on Jul 13, 2012 23:49:27 GMT -8
Great information. Right off I would say all is good with the wheel *knock on wood*. It powers up fine, I was able to map everything I needed and it saved fine and loads up fine in rFactor.
There is a constant fan hum but it doesn't really bother me. The one thing I noticed is that even though I mapped the clutch pedal and turned off "auto-clutch" in both V8s and the Saleen Challenge, I was still able to shift sans clutch which I thought was kind of odd.
I might just be missing a step though. Overall I am of the school that if it isn't broken, don't mess with it so I'll probably leave things as they are. I still might check the firmware just so I know where I am currently sitting.
Cheers!
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Post by Jarhead on Jul 14, 2012 4:09:07 GMT -8
Kelly, for your wheel, the latest firmware you would want is 681. That is the latest known working firmware for the Porsche wheels. Here is the link for FW 681: 911wheel.de/?q=node/4349Inside of the zip file with the firmware are the instructions for installing it. You need to follow those instructions very carefully as Lawyer said. Before you attempt to update the firmware, you should check which version you have. Here are the instructions from the update manual: Step 12 Test if the FW was successful. PWGT3RS V2 Start the wheel so the autocalibration routine moves the wheel to the right side and back to the center. Before the wheel goes back to the center, grab the wheel and stop it. Press the lower 4 of the 8 main buttons of the wheel and hold them. Now move the wheel to the center and then release the 4 buttons. You will now see the FW version and the status of the fans (PWGT3RS V2). Important note: Checking the firmware version also toggles the fans On and OFF. If you check the firmware and it says OFF, you need to check it again so that it says On. Otherwise you may overheat your wheel. Another link you may be interested in to download the manual for your wheel: www.fanatec.de/html/index.php?id=3116&lang=enGood luck and have fun with your (new to you) wheel. |
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Post by Kelly G on Jul 14, 2012 7:44:00 GMT -8
Thanks guys. I did download the manual for my wheel previously but aside from some pretty pictures its pretty pointless as an actual manual but I appreciate the link.
I'll check my firmware soon as I have my cockpit all back together and the wheel mounted again. Obutto DID get back to me after all so I'll be ordering the new cockpit next week (off topic).
Cheers!
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Post by Jarhead on Jul 14, 2012 11:18:12 GMT -8
How much is the Obutto cockpit you are ordering if you don't mind my asking? Have you taken a look at the rSeat. I've seen and read about all the cockpits out there and rSeat is the most solid from what I could see. I really like mine, absolutely rock solid. Nothing moves at all. Really makes a difference when you have a stable aggressive racing position.
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Post by Kelly G on Jul 14, 2012 12:15:45 GMT -8
I have looked at quite a few cockpits and it did come down to either Obutto or the rSeat but for different reasons.
The Obutto is $469 Cdn at my door while the rSeat is $755 Cdn to my door. This was a big factor.
I have been happy with my home made rig and recently had a chance to sit in and use an Obutto OZone and its far more rigid than what I'm using now. The pricing savings between the two cockpits paid for my Fanatec Wheel with a bit leftover.
The other advantage is that I can use the Obutto for my FPS gaming in addition to driving which is something I can't do with the rSeat. I play a lot of Skyrim and BF3 so its a consideration.
Cheers!
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Post by Kelly G on Jul 14, 2012 18:01:23 GMT -8
okies, checked the firmware and I'm at 681. Took a couple of tries but got the fans turned back on so all good in the hood.
Thanks for the help!
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Post by helios16v on Jul 14, 2012 19:34:40 GMT -8
To this date, I'm still running the firmware that they shipped from the factory with....on both of them.  |
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Post by Jarhead on Jul 17, 2012 4:54:54 GMT -8
I have looked at quite a few cockpits and it did come down to either Obutto or the rSeat but for different reasons. The Obutto is $469 Cdn at my door while the rSeat is $755 Cdn to my door. This was a big factor. I have been happy with my home made rig and recently had a chance to sit in and use an Obutto OZone and its far more rigid than what I'm using now. The pricing savings between the two cockpits paid for my Fanatec Wheel with a bit leftover. The other advantage is that I can use the Obutto for my FPS gaming in addition to driving which is something I can't do with the rSeat. I play a lot of Skyrim and BF3 so its a consideration. Cheers! Wow, that rSeat price is almost 200 more than I paid for mine delivered. Sounds like the Obutto seat was the best choice for you. You have a good point about the versatility of the Obutto. There is no easy way I could use my rSeat for anything but sim racing. |
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Post by smokey on Feb 11, 2013 4:04:39 GMT -8
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Post by Deleted on Feb 11, 2013 11:51:13 GMT -8
Not yet but I just realized I was running driver 144 32 bit on my 64 bit system....would it make a big difference if I reverted to the stock 115v or the new beta 64 bit version?
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Post by Deleted on Feb 12, 2013 2:13:30 GMT -8
I tried the new driver tonite....too me ot seems the ffb is stronger I had to lower my ingame strength on most cars down by 5-10 and it feels like the enlarged deadzone around the center has been fixed, the cars felt like they were turning in a lot quicker.....but I also had a few beers before hand lol ill give it ago tomorrow to see if it still feels the same
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Post by smokey on Feb 12, 2013 3:21:24 GMT -8
lol
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Post by boza on Feb 12, 2013 4:49:04 GMT -8
Which driver are you using Kurupt??
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