Dan W.
Race Steward
Posts: 5,377 
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Post by Dan W. on Feb 4, 2014 17:12:53 GMT -8
My GT2 is starting to do weird things, so I'm looking to get a replacement for the day it quits and was wondering how the CSR compares to the GT2?
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Post by zero7159 on Feb 4, 2014 17:45:21 GMT -8
The CSR paddle shifters are nicer than the paddle shifters on the GT2. They feel more solid and have a nicer click. I also found the FFB to be smoother. If you put your hands at 9 and 3 o'clock, then the CSR rim is fine, because of the alcantara grips. But, if you put your hands at 10 and 2 o'clock, then you may not like the CSR rim much, because you will be gripping plastic, not alcantara. The CSR is $50 cheaper than the GT2. It's the best value in sim racing wheels IMO.
Sent from my HTC One X using proboards
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Post by zero7159 on Feb 4, 2014 17:49:19 GMT -8
The CSR also has bigger cooling vents than the GT2.
Sent from my HTC One X using proboards
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Post by zedarchitect on Feb 4, 2014 18:18:38 GMT -8
Knowing that Dan drives at the 12:00 position with one hand, the csr may not be ideal. As Craig said, it's plastic up there.
I've had some issues with my CSR. My power button started flaking out in me to the point where it would reset itself mid race. Not fun. I rigged my own button instead if sending it for repair so that I wouldn't wind up with a refurbished wheel. I made a thread about the repair and it's been fine since.
I also cracked the rim above the grip area. I drive with my hands at 3 & 9. I had to turn the wheel 180 degrees with one hand and the way I had to squeeze the rim was at its weakest point so it cracked. I fixed that as well and have been meaning to post the fix. The innards if the rim are metal except above the grips so further to your driving style, you will be gripping plastic that has no metal inside.
Phone's about to die and don't want to lose this long post but I can give you more if you want. Next week will be two years with my CSR.
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Dan W.
Race Steward
Posts: 5,377
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Post by Dan W. on Feb 4, 2014 21:11:19 GMT -8
Hmmm... Yeah that may be a problem for me. I torque the wheel pretty hard from top dead center. I'd probably break it pretty quick.
So what about the T-500RS?
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Post by zero7159 on Feb 4, 2014 21:26:57 GMT -8
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Dan W.
Race Steward
Posts: 5,377
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Post by Dan W. on Feb 4, 2014 22:26:03 GMT -8
Thanks Bud, Looks like I may go for either a T-500 or another GT2, depending on what I can find that is in stock.
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Post by oldrustybelly55 on Feb 5, 2014 4:38:57 GMT -8
I,ve had all three wheels. The t500 is the way to go.
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Post by zero7159 on Feb 5, 2014 9:24:28 GMT -8
I,ve had all three wheels. The t500 is the way to go. I agree. |
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Post by helios16v on Feb 5, 2014 9:36:02 GMT -8
I'll be shopping soon too. My biggest concern w/ the T500 is that USB issue that Craig had that has comes back every now and again.
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Post by zero7159 on Feb 5, 2014 10:00:42 GMT -8
I'll be shopping soon too. My biggest concern w/ the T500 is that USB issue that Craig had that has comes back every now and again. The USB port issue did re-surface this weekend, but I think I know the cause. Before you heard me growsing on Sunday morning, I had mistakenly hooked up my T500 to a USB port in a hub. That is a big no no!!! The T500 must be hooked up directly to a USB 2.0 port. From what I can tell, an extension cable is fine, but no USB 3.0 or hubs are allowed. When I did that, Windows went out and found a driver, but the driver did not properly install. I then disconnected the T500 and then reconnected it to the proper USB cable that I have used successfully without incident. When I loaded everything up, the wheel did not work correctly. I looked in the Devices and Printers tab and rather than see "Thrustmaster T500RS Wheel" like usual, the device was listed as "B65D." I think that happened because I mistakenly hooked up the T500 to the hub, which caused Windows to go out and get the wrong driver. I restarted my computer and since then, my T500 has worked fine and the Thrustmaster driver is loading each time I connect my T500. In summary, I do not think the USB port issue is likely to re-surface for me, so long as I avoid using the hub for the T500. I have marked the T500 cable and the extension cable with tape so I know what I am connecting. Moreover, this is not a common issue from what I can tell and so if you purchase a new T500, I think it is highly unlikely you will have the same problem I have experienced. My T500 is a V.4 that I bought in 2012. The new version of the T500 is V.6. |
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Post by zero7159 on Feb 5, 2014 10:14:59 GMT -8
Keep in mind with the T500 that the stock GT rim is covered with high quality rubber, which sits on top of metal. That means that the rim is rock solid, but not especially comfortable to the touch. I personally wear fingerless gloves and so the feel of the rim is not as big of a deal. You guys have been using Alcantara covered Fanatec rims, which feel much nicer than the T500 GT or GTE rims. Also, the CSW BMW rim has a high quality Alcantara feel as well, which I do miss.
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Post by helios16v on Feb 5, 2014 10:22:02 GMT -8
Yeah, that alone has me leaning in that direction.....I just don't know.  |
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Post by oldrustybelly55 on Feb 5, 2014 11:57:10 GMT -8
I have mine plugged into a hub.I never have any problems with mine. It works 100% all the time.And it doesnt matter which usb I plug it into.
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Post by zero7159 on Feb 5, 2014 12:11:34 GMT -8
I have mine plugged into a hub.I never have any problems with mine. It works 100% all the time.And it doesnt matter which usb I plug it into. That doesn't surprise me. I think that the USB issue is not a widespread problem with the T500. I have not heard of any other person that has experienced these issues. Rather, I think the issue is unique to my wheel. If it re-surfaces and I cannot resolve it, I can use the TX for a week or two, while I wait for amazon to ship me a new V.6 T500. LOL!!! |
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