My GT3RS Wheel has wigged out!

[Kelly G]

So here I was practicing on Yas and I come onto the back straight and suddenly I can't shift (I was using the paddles) and when I look down the display on the GT3RS looks like the Predator wrist bomb.

Here is a video I shot:



I've done the bulk of the standard stuff: powered the wheel on and off, reloaded the firmware, rebooted the PC, tried it in different games and as such I'm positive its the wheel itself (given that it does it just in windows as well).

Any ideas?

Assuming that the wheel itself is dead, I need a new one asap.

Budget wise I can do another GT3RS or a CSR. It would only get used on a PC so the GT3RS seems the likely choice but man I'm hesitant to do another Fanatec product.

Thoughts?

[smokey]

lol 'YAY Fanatec I fucking hate you'

it looks as if it has died was there any warning? have you got a console to try it in? but definitely contact them Kelly whish I could come up with more but im pretty new to Fanatec

[Seahawks1Fan]

I would send Fanatec that video. You might take out that last part though before you send it.

[Kelly G]

Nope, no warning. Just ripping it up on the track and then pfft. Weirdness.

I'm afraid my frustration shone through there a bit. I'll edit the video.

[F1Fan07]

Hm. My first suggestion was going to be looking for something loose... it looks like a cable or connector making intermittent contact.

[spazsterian]

Pm bash kelly...he prolly knows what plug it is

Sent from my SPH-D710 using proboards

[Seahawks1Fan]

I would still send Fanatec an email. They ended up sending me some parts for my PWTS and it wasn't under warranty at that time either. Not sure they still will do that, but it's worth an email and you've already done the video. Like I said, just remove the last part, but everything else is fine on it as it shows them exactly what the wheel is doing. My 2 cents.

I also read on ISR awhile back that Fanatec sent a guy the wheel base on his GT2 wheel for $35 or something like that. It never hurts to ask.

[Kelly G]

I sent an email to Fanatec this morning to see what they say along with a slightly edited video.

[Kelly G]

So Fanatec replied back and want me to drop to the 144 driver vs the 152 I currently have. I will do that later and get back to them on it.

Cheers!

[zero7159]

Gotta love these wheels. Cannot live with them, cannot live without them.

[mrbasherman]

Edit: Just saw the thing about the driver... It's not the driver. Read on.

It's VERY likely the cable loom that goes down the steering column. It's easy to get at.

Got a soldering iron?

What happens is that they slice the tube that the cables run through using a razor blade. This slice lets the tube bend easier. However, they aren't very careful with the blade sometimes and nick the wires inside. Over time the wires will break and need to be stripped and soldered back together. Or sometimes they just plain break.

[Kelly G]

I personally didn't think it was the driver either as I have been using it with no issues for a couple of months now.

I will go over that centre loom again. I didn't see anything obvious the first run through but given everything happens when I turn the wheel what you say makes a lot of sense.

" I will of course dutifully follow Fanatec's instructions to the letter because that is a good troubleshooting step and necessary to ensure that we exhaust all software possibilities first."

Cheers!

[mrbasherman]

You probably won't be able to notice a break in one of the wires without really taking a close look at them since they are all bunched up together. You can check the connectors too, but they are likely glued in...

[Kelly G]

The top connector wasn't glued in and I didn't trace the centre spindle all the way to the other end but will do so. I noticed all the othe connectors were indeed glued.

[F1Fan07]

Whenever I open up something like a wheel, the hot glue gun comes out to reinforce every connection I can find